Last Sunday the world stopped for a moment to watch the beautiful game. As an American abroad, getting into soccer/football this summer has actually been pretty cool! Every match - not just the USA matches - has been required viewing, either at the local pubs in Haifa or back at our house in Ramat Eshkol.
Since we were no longer in Haifa for the weekend of the final, the team decided to take cabs into Tel Aviv to watch the match. What better place to see the 2010 World Cup Final than in the country's most party-centric city! After a great dinner - the team migrated to the Paradise Bar - the local Dutch expat bar to watch the game. The mood at the bar (and in the streets surrounding it) was electric. Everywhere you looked, people were gathered around TVs or were standing on whatever they could (cars, benches, etc.) to see the various big screen projectors that had been set up. Some folks in our group found a hole in the wall bar next door to watch the match, while another group (me included) went down the block to a schwarma place to see the game. In the end - the Dutch lost in OT - which was a big disappointment for everyone (me especially) since we'd all been pulling for the boys in orange. That being said, the Spanish played a heck of a game and that final goal was very clutch. Congrats to them.
After a very busy final week in Haifa, I've finally gotten around to writing about our trip last weekend to Jerusalem. It was a pretty packed weekend, so there's a lot to cover. On Friday morning (July 2) we departed very early from Haifa for the ride south to Jerusalem.
"The Old City of Jerusalem just before sunset"
Photo by Stephen Kushner
After a sleepy ride south, our first stop was at Yad Vashem, Israel's official Holocaust memorial and museum. Established in 1953 through the Yad Vashem Law passed by the Knesset, Israel's parliament, the museum is a 45-acre (600,000sqft) complex located at at the foot of Mount Herzl on the Mount of Remembrance in Jerusalem. It contains the Holocaust History Museum and memorial sites, such as the Children's Memorial and the Hall of Remembrance. The origin of the name is from a Biblical verse: "And to them will I give in my house and within my walls a memorial and a name (Yad Vashem) that shall not be cut off". Annually, it is Israel's second most visited site behind the Western Wall.
"Inside the Hall of Remembrance at the Holocaust Museum"
Photo by Kristin Thompson
Even for those among us who had previously visited either the US Holocaust Museum in Washington D.C. or visited the concentration camps in Europe, this was a very somber and sobering experience. As a few of us noted, the internal architecture of the museum felt intentional - leading visitors through a confined and crowded space - with the cement walls seeming to fall inward as one walked through the exhibits - recreating the feel of the concentration camps. In contrast, the exterior grounds were beautiful, with many memorial statues and gardens. All in all it was an experience we will all remember for a long time. "Looking out at Judea after emerging from the Holocaust Museum"
Photo by Kristin Thompson
After Yad Vashem, the group traveled to the Mahane Yehuda market (the souq) for schwarma and snacks. I had a delicious schwarma with hot peppers and - my new favorite topping - spicy mango sauce. Amazing! Afterwords, I bought some dried pineapple and coconut (which is cheap and tasty) and then grabbed coffee at a small cafe while waiting for the rest of the team to finish. I will definitely miss the food and smells of the souq once I get back to the US. Don't get me wrong - Eastern Market is great - it's just not Mehane Yehuda.
That evening (Friday) the team had Shabbat dinner at the home of our on-the-ground coordinator - Shelby. An American (now having lived in Israel for about a year) Shelby was kind enough to open her house to us for the night. After a great meal we settled in to watch the World Cup match between Ghana and Uruguay. Late that evening we retired to our hotel for the weekend - Ramat Rachel Hotel located in Kibbutz Ramat Rachel. A little bit secluded from the center of the city, the place was located on a hill offering gorgeous views of Bethlehem, Jerusalem and the Judean Hills.
After our meeting with Glen Schwaber from Israel CleanTech Ventures, we departed Jerusalem for the trip south to the city of Be'er Sheva. As we drove, the group debriefed from our earlier meeting and also prepared questions and exchanged information in preparation for our two upcoming afternoon company visits.
Photo by Kristin Thompson
At the time, unbeknown to the team, our group's driver had mistakenly taken an unintended detour on Israel Highway 60, which cuts directly through the heart of the West Bank, past the cities of Bethlehem and Hebron, before reentering Israel proper just outside Be'er Sheva. We were all definitely caught off guard when - after two hours of very fast driving - we entered an armed checkpoint to reenter Israeli controlled territory. Definitely an interesting experience, to say the least! I would write more, but that story is for another time.
After a quick schwarma lunch at a local mall, we arrived at our second meeting of the day, Netafim. Founded in 1965, Netafim is jointly owned by three kibbutzim - Hatzerim, Magal and Yiftah. As of June, 2010 they have over 2,000 employees, operate in 112 countries, and have annual sales over $400 million. Netafim is the global leader in smart drip irrigation solutions for a sustainable future. Since introducing the world's first drip irrigation solutions they have led the way by developing products that help our customers optimize results.
Photo by Kristin Thompson
Our host and guide at Netafim was Naty Barak, the Head of Sustainable Development and a 30+ year veteran of both Netafim and the Hatzerim kibbutz. Naty offered the Smith team a fantastic overview of Israel's first cleantech firm (before anyone even knew about sustainability or clean technology), its history and its future. After a 20 minute presentation, covering the technology of drip irrigation, as well as a few current case studies of its use and impact in global agriculture, we departed for a tour of the Netafim factory. We walked the production floor, inspecting up close each machine along the way.
Photo by Kristin Thompson
Our next visit was to Yitran Communications Ltd., another Be'er Sheva based company. Yitran is a company based around power line carrier technology. In particular, they produce fabless semiconductors and integrated circuits that allow for command and control applications including Energy Management, Automatic/Remote Meter Reading, Home/Building Automation, Switching and Lighting, HVAC Control, Street Light control and more. Now 10+ years since its creation, Yitran is still looking for its first big win.
Amit Grauer, Yitran's current VP of Product Management played host to the Smith team during our visit and walked us though Yitran's short, but eventful history - walking us through its ups and downs - and explaining the path they see to eventually achieving success in the future. As many in our group aspire to become entrepreneurs in the future - it was certainly interesting understanding the false starts, missed opportunities, etc. that come with any new venture. Yitran is certainly an interesting company with a valuable product. The question is twofold though: 1) Can they convince the right industry players to adopt them as the standard? and 2) Can they stay afloat long enough to see the first part become reality?
The weekend in Jerusalem and Be'er Sheva was highly rewarding. By the time we rolled back into Haifa late Sunday night - without a doubt - the whole team was exhausted. That being said, everyone agreed that they wouldn't have missed anything we'd done.
Once again, the Smith team found ourselves on the road - off to explore another part of Israel. Friday, after an early morning departure from Haifa, a relaxing drive down the coastal highway, and a morning meeting (detailed in the previous post), we were guided on a visit of Tel Aviv and the surrounding area.
The commercial and modern cultural center of Israel, Tel Aviv is a study in contrasts. The city itself is only slightly older than the modern state of Israel itself. Indeed, it was only founded a little over 100 years ago by a group of industrious Jewish settlers - literally built on top of a series of inhospitable sand dunes. However, Tel Aviv is directly adjacent to (and incorporates) the significantly older port city of Jaffa.
"Me, Sean, Anne, and Kristin by the seashore in Old Jaffa"
Photo by Kristin Thompson
It was in Jaffa that we spent the afternoon, strolling about and seeing the sights. In Jaffa, we saw St. Peter's Church, the Old Minaret, and the Ottoman Jailhouse. We walked past winding alleyways and half forgotten neighborhoods. Jaffa is no longer an active port, but its amazing location on the waterfront provides a beautiful view from the Mediterranean Sea back towards Tel Aviv proper.
"Me with the city of Tel Aviv in the distance"
Photo by Kristin Thompson
Adjacent to Jaffa is the Neve Tzedek neighborhood. Fashionable and trendy, this was a favorite section of Tel Aviv for many among us. Our walk back towards central Tel Aviv led through one of the city's largest open air souqs, the Hacarmel. In many ways, the market is no different from any other one might find in the world. Loud and crowded, and filled with all varieties of merchandise, both local and foreign in origin, markets like this one are a true experience for the senses.
"The sights and sounds of Tel Aviv's Hacarmel market"
Photo by Stephen Kushner
What really sets one market apart from another though is the local foods. For myself, this is the aspect of travel that has the most resonance. Really, look at these olives below and try and tell me it doesn't make you hungry! From vendors selling fresh produce and spices, to sidewalk chefs hawking hundreds of varieties of street food, this is where a market really differentiates itself. In Israel this means schwarma, falafel, and burekas. Not to miss out, I made sure to sample all three! Delicious.
"Some delicious looking olives in the Hacarmel market"
Photo by Stephen Kushner
To be honest though, these are really only the tip of the iceberg when it comes to Israeli street cuisine. As such, over the next few weeks myself and a few other adventurous teammates will be looking to try as many others as we come across. Personally, I can't wait!
Following our tour, we headed to our hotel. Our lodgings in Tel Aviv were pretty cool, too. Our hotel, the Hotel Cinema, was built in the famous Bauhaus style, and for years served as a movie theater (actually the city's first). After briefly showering and changing we headed out to sample the night life. Dinner was at Mike's Place - directly adjacent to the US Embassy. Then, we schlepped quickly across the street to La Mer - for nargila and drinks on the beach - a true Tel Aviv experience, not to be missed.
"The team enjoys dinner out at Mike's Place in Tel Aviv"
Photo by Brad Husser
On Saturday, we were free to explore the city. Some in the group opted to head to the beach, while others (myself included) decided to walk the promenade from Tel Aviv to Jaffa. Having toured the city with a guide the previous day, we had a chance to retrace our steps in greater detail. It was hot and sweaty, and though many shops were closed for Shabbat, we were definitely glad to get a chance to see the city for a second day.
"Chris, Kelley, Brad, and Don - looking like the A-Team"
Photo by Stephen Kushner
As we departed on Sunday, I believe the shared consensus among the group was that our tour of Tel Aviv was a great success! Without a doubt, Tel Aviv is a cool city - equal parts Miami, Rio, and Israel. It is a place to see and be seen. We'll be back.
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Last Sunday the world stopped for a moment to watch the beautiful game. As an American abroad, getting into soccer/football this summer has actually been pretty cool! Every match - not just the USA matches - has been required viewing, either at the local pubs in Haifa or back at our house in Ramat Eshkol.
Since we were no longer in Haifa for the weekend of the final, the team decided to take cabs into Tel Aviv to watch the match. What better place to see the 2010 World Cup Final than in the country's most party-centric city! After a great dinner - the team migrated to the Paradise Bar - the local Dutch expat bar to watch the game. The mood at the bar (and in the streets surrounding it) was electric. Everywhere you looked, people were gathered around TVs or were standing on whatever they could (cars, benches, etc.) to see the various big screen projectors that had been set up. Some folks in our group found a hole in the wall bar next door to watch the match, while another group (me included) went down the block to a schwarma place to see the game. In the end - the Dutch lost in OT - which was a big disappointment for everyone (me especially) since we'd all been pulling for the boys in orange. That being said, the Spanish played a heck of a game and that final goal was very clutch. Congrats to them.
