Fun In The Sun, pt1

On Thursday the team arrived in the late afternoon to Eilat. Israel's southernmost city, Eilat is a popular resort town on the Red Sea. Everyone was really excited for some time at the beach - though the heat in Eilat (especially at this time of year) is particularly brutal.

Upon arriving at Eilat, Gil and I both went immediately to Marina Divers. Back before he left Israel for college at Maryland, Gil had been a dive master instructor there - so this was definitely the place to set up camp. I got my PADI open water certification back in 2004 in Koh Tao, Thailand, but I was a bit rusty so I needed to get re-certified before I could go out for dives. While I did the hour long course, Gil went out on his own for a solo dive. With my clearance, I was ready to go for the next few days. In the mean time the rest of the group either crashed back at the hotel and/or looked for shopping at the big mall down by the waterfront. Everyone reconnected a little later in the evening for dinner and nargila on the beach. All in all, it was a great first night in Eilat!

"The undersea beauty awaiting just off the coast of Eilat in the Red Sea"
Photo by Aqua-Sport

The following morning we all met at daybreak (6am) in the lobby to depart for an early morning hike up Mt. Zephachot. Adjacent to the coast, this mountain offered breathtaking views of the surrounding desert, as well as the Red Sea all the way from Saudia Arabia and Jordan, back to Israel. Given the heat (pushing 110 degrees that morning) the hike was not a picnic. We were all very sweaty and tired by the time we reached the peak. That being said, the view was well worth the effort.

"The team takes a much needed break after climbing Mt. Zephachot"
Photo by Kristin Thompson

Following the hike, we returned to the hotel for breakfast and a rest. Gil and I hopped a cab back to the dive shop and had a dive. Not more than a few hundred feet off the coast is the shipwreck of an old Israeli missile boat, which was intentionally foundered many years ago. We descended and swam through the boat before heading back to the surface via a coral reef. It was awesome! After our dive, we put away our gear and returned to the hotel where the group departed for a tour along the Egypt-Israel border fence.

"Steven looks out at the Egyptian guard tower near the Taba crossing"
Photo by Kristin Thompson

After the border tour everyone was excited to proceed to our next stop, the Kassui Sand Dunes. Straight out of a movie (think Tatooine or Dune), these otherworldly sand dunes were a lot of fun to play around on. We hiked up the side and found the perfect spot to dive off into the sand - and almost everyone took a turn leaping and jumping off the edge. The only downside to this little escapade was that the sand was hot as hell and stuck to everything. No matter, it was still a lot of fun!

"Brad showing some moves at the Kassui Sand Dunes"
Photo by Kristin Thompson

Post sand dunes, I once again went for another dive, before rejoining the group for our final acts of the evening - water sports at the Red Sea Sports Club. First the group took out the world's slowest motorboats (maybe 5 horsepower). We then got to ride the banana boat (being tugged behind a significantly faster boat). Lastly, some in the group opted to take out kayaks, while the rest of us got drinks at a bar on the beach. It being Shabbat, the group took it easy that night at the hotel. Another successful day in the books!

Galilee To Golan, pt2

We awoke early on Saturday morning for another day of touring in the Galilee region. In particular, the plan for the day was to tour the many sites of primary importance to Christianity - as this was the land in which Jesus lived for much of his adult life. After a quick, but tasty, breakfast at our hotel, we were off to our first stop of the day, Capernaum, situated right along the northwestern coast of the Sea of Galilee.

Photo by Kristin Thompson

Our tour guide, Meni, brought us first to the ruins of Capernaum's ancient synagogue, where he gave us a very detailed description of the sites history. Afterwords, we walked to House of Saint Peter. Now in ruins, the village of Capernaum has a long and complex history. Dating originally to 150 BCE, Capernaum factors into the New Testament in numerous places. In the Gospel of Luke it was reported to have been the home of the apostles Peter, Andrew, James and John, as well as the tax collector Matthew. According to Luke 4:31-44, Jesus taught in the synagogue in Capernaum on the Sabbath. In the Gospel of Matthew the town was reported to have been the home of Jesus. According to Matthew 8:5-13, it was where a Centurion asked Jesus to heal his servant.

Photo by Kelley Harris

From Capernaum we once again returned to the Jordan River - for the second time in two days - this time to the river south of the Sea of Galilee. This is an area that holds significance to Christians - especially many of the evangelical denominations. It was in this area that Jesus was supposedly baptized by his cousin John the Baptist. After a brief stop here, we stopped at a nearby fresh food market (definitely not a normal tourist stop) where we picked up dates, olives, spices, and my personal favorite - halva. For those not familiar, halva is a sesame based snack - that is often combined with other things like pistachios, coffee, and cocoa. It is a staple of Israeli life and is just plain delicious!

Photo by Kristin Thompson

We then hit the road back to the city of Tiberias. Our activity for the afternoon was an hour long cruise on the Sea of Galilee. The weather was fantastic - clear blue skies - hot, but not totally uncomfortable, especially with the light breeze on the water. Honestly - as an aside - the weather since we've arrived in Israel has been nothing sort of amazing. No rain, sunny every day. To be sure, it's been hot - though nothing a southern boy like myself can't handle. Following the cruise, we stopped for lunch at Kibbutz Ein Gev and then returned to our hotel.

Photo by Kristin Thompson

After a change and a short rest, some people elected to stay at the resort and relax. Most of the team however, departed for the Hamat Gader Springs. These are natural hot springs located in a small sliver of Israeli controlled territory right at the territorial junction of Syria, Jordan, and Israel. To get there you drive down a very steep and winding road - on both sides are the remains of the many battles that have been fought there in the Six-Day War and Yom Kippur War. Signs warning about land mines were everywhere.

Once one arrives at the hot springs, one quickly forgets the dangers surrounding it. Used as a natural spring even during Roman times (the ruins are on site) the current springs is a more modern facility constructed in the late 1970s. Smelling slightly of sulfur, the pools were almost 120+ Fahrenheit - over 20 degrees warmer than the current outside temperature. Interestingly, strange as it may seem, once one gets into the water, it quickly becomes very comfortable. I really liked it - and I'm pretty certain I wasn't alone among the team.

For dinner that evening, the team hopped into the bus back to Tiberias. This time, we had an opportunity to see a little bit of the town as we searched for a restaurant. We eventually settled on a hole-in-the-wall kabab shop. Unbelievably smokey, the place was a real find! The place didn't really have any good options for us to sit together, but Meni and Gil, our two Israeli experts said, "grab tables and set 'em up on the sidewalk." A few minutes later and we were ready to go. A great end to another terrific day!

Jerusalem Visit

After a day back in Haifa for our weekly class at the Technion, on Friday morning the Smith team was back on the road for a full weekend of touring and sightseeing. In the morning we were met by our guide, Israel, who gave us a preview of the days activities as we sped down the highway to our first stop of the day, Caesarea.

"Our guide Israel weaves a story about ancient Caesarea"
Photo by Kristin Thompson

Planted firmly against the coast, halfway between Haifa and Tel Aviv, Caesarea is an ancient port city that dates to the time of Herod the Great – about 22 BCE. The ancient city itself is no longer inhabited - as the last occupants, French crusaders under Louis IX - were forced to flee when the city was put to fire by Baybar invaders in 1251 CE. Literally lost to the sands, the city was rediscovered and its secrets uncovered in the 1940s due to the financial generosity of Baron Edmond Benjamin James de Rothschild.

"Modern concerts in Caesarea's ancient amphitheater"
Photo by Kristin Thompson

Our first stop in Caesarea was the Roman aqueduct that provided fresh water to the city for over a thousand years. From there we proceeded to the old city itself, where we visited the Roman theater, hippodrome, and palace (which was possibly the former residence of Pontius Pilate). As we walked back to the van, we passed through the city walls and across the moat, which were both constructed by the Crusaders. All in all, Caesarea was awesome!
 

"Driving through East Jerusalem"
Photo by Kristin Thompson

From Caesarea we drove directly on to Jerusalem. Since it was Friday, a lot of tourist sites were closing at sunset for Shabbat, so we were in quite a rush to get into town. We drove into the Old City and parked right next to the City of David – where the Biblical King built his palace and capital in 1000 BCE. The key attraction at this famous archaeological site is Hezekiah's Tunnel. This tunnel, which runs for a little under half a mile is filled with about three feet of water at all times. We walked (in my case barefoot) through the tunnel before emerging on the other side in East Jerusalem. Following our underground trek (which seemed to go on and on), we proceeded to the promenade overlooking the city.

"Looking out at Old Jerusalem from the Haas Promenade" 
Photo by Kelley Harris

We went next to our hotel for a brief rest before Shabbat dinner. Max and Sue Singer (parents of Saul Singer, the author of Start-up Nation) were kind enough to invite the entire Smith team into their home to participate in this weekly Jewish tradition. Dinner began with the serving of homemade challahs. Afterwords, this ritual was followed by Kiddush, the blessing of the wine. Max and Sue then led us through a number of other songs and readings before we finally began the meal in earnest. Altogether, everyone had a great time!
 

"Shabbat dinner with Max and Sue Singer"
 Photo by Stephen Kushner

In the preceding days, I had been coming down with a bit of a cold. A bug of some sort had been making its rounds around the team - and unfortunately my time arrived sometime late Friday night. I woke Saturday morning feeling pretty horrible - so somewhat reluctantly I opted to skip the tour that morning. I did get a pretty good report from the team later that evening though, when we all convened for dinner.
 

"Old Jerusalem near the Jaffa Gate" 
Photo by Kristin Thompson

On Saturday the group met our guide, Israel, at 9am in the hotel lobby. From there the group went to the Old City, this time for a more thorough tour of its many historical sites. The team walked the Via Dolorosa, visited the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, and shopped (and ate) in the Muristan Souq. From there they climbed the ramparts and walked the city walls, emerging just next to the Western Wall. The last stop of the afternoon was a short drive to the Mount of Olives – a site significant to both Jewish and Christian traditions.

"Fresh food at the always busy, Muristan Souq"
Photo by Kristin Thompson

I was feeling a bit better that evening so I opted to join everyone for dinner at Asher Epstein’s place. Altogether, the group was feeling pretty fired up about everything we’d seen and done so far this weekend. Additionally, this evening was especially important to everyone, as it was the England vs. USA World Cup match. Americans (myself included) have a funny habit of completely ignoring the sport of soccer (nee football) for 4 years and then suddenly remembering when the Cup comes around again. It may be the world’s sport, but it certainly isn’t America's sport. Anyway, the game started at 9:30pm, so many in the group decided to head to the The Lion’s Den pub to watch.
 

"Everyone celebrates as the USA battles back against England in the World Cup" 
Photo by Kristin Thompson

Ninety minutes later the game was over and we (the USA) had forced England to a 1-1 tie. I’ve read that this was a fantastic result – as everyone had expected England to prevail. That being said, I have a hard time getting excited about a tie game. I mean, really? A tie? I think this fact alone is what makes it so hard for Americans to get behind this game. Someone has to win. Without a winner, what’s the point?  

Anyway, one other cool outcome from the game: our esteemed photographer, Kristin had the previous photo featured in the Washington Post. Congrats, Kristin! All in all, Jerusalem was a blast! We got to see some fantastic historical sites, eat wonderful food, and watch the USA beat up on our cousins across the pond. It would be hard to ask for much more – well maybe the USA could have won rather than tied - but I digress.

Ethical Investing, pt2

In my previous blog post, I covered the first half of Rick Zitelman's presentation to the Technion Entrepreneurship Club on ethics and investing. After concluding his discussion of Jewish business ethics, Rick transitioned to a more general presentation on investing in Israel and investing overall. 

"Anne, Kelley, and Don chatting with Rick Zitelman"
Photo by Kristin Thompson

For many years, Rick has been an investor in companies - as a venture capitalist - as well as a principal advisor to other investors and investment firms. Further, he has been (and currently is) an investor in Israeli companies. As such, he has a wide range of hard won advice to offer to investors - especially those looking to invest in Israel.

In regards to investing in general, Rick offered nine "rules" to live by ...

• There is money and then there is SMART money.
• Smart investors invest in people - passion and potential are critical.
• Remember, it ALWAYS takes longer and costs more.
• It's better to have more capital than less.
• It's better to have a small piece of a big pie, than a big piece of a small pie.
• Protect your IP, but remember, it takes a lot of money and time.
• Play to your strengths and learn to work with your weaknesses.
• There are three types of investors: Lead, Co-, and Passive.
• Valuations are never easy. Take your time and do your homework.

As you can imagine, hearing Rick's thoughts about investing in Israel (specifically his views on the American perspective) was also of keen interest to the Israeli Technion students in the audience - especially those involved in high-tech start-ups - or those considering starting their own ventures. For them, Rick had a few key pieces of wisdom.

• Investors look for reasons not to invest. Don't let poor communication be why.
• Time differences can play havoc. Be prepared to work odd hours.
• When dealing with America, Shabbat removes a significant portion of the week.
• As a deal develops, it becomes good to have partners in both the US and Israel. 

Rick concluded his talk by discussing a final criteria for new ventures in Israel. According to Rick, the Israeli government's Office of Chief Scientist (as well as many other local incubators) offer lucrative sources of early stage financing. However, he indicated that investors and firms should really do their homework before signing onto one of these partnerships, as there are significant pros and cons to following this path. The avenues available for exit can narrow if a firm accepts investment from these entities.

Rick's talk was really well received. He offered both the Smith School and Technion students a great overview of Jewish business ethics, investing, and investing in Israel.

Tel Aviv Weekend

Once again, the Smith team found ourselves on the road - off to explore another part of Israel. Friday, after an early morning departure from Haifa, a relaxing drive down the coastal highway, and a morning meeting (detailed in the previous post), we were guided on a visit of Tel Aviv and the surrounding area.

The commercial and modern cultural center of Israel, Tel Aviv is a study in contrasts. The city itself is only slightly older than the modern state of Israel itself. Indeed, it was only founded a little over 100 years ago by a group of industrious Jewish settlers - literally built on top of a series of inhospitable sand dunes. However, Tel Aviv is directly adjacent to (and incorporates) the significantly older port city of Jaffa.

"Me, Sean, Anne, and Kristin by the seashore in Old Jaffa"
Photo by Kristin Thompson

It was in Jaffa that we spent the afternoon, strolling about and seeing the sights. In Jaffa, we saw St. Peter's Church, the Old Minaret, and the Ottoman Jailhouse. We walked past winding alleyways and half forgotten neighborhoods. Jaffa is no longer an active port, but its amazing location on the waterfront provides a beautiful view from the Mediterranean Sea back towards Tel Aviv proper.

"Me with the city of Tel Aviv in the distance"
Photo by Kristin Thompson

Adjacent to Jaffa is the Neve Tzedek neighborhood. Fashionable and trendy, this was a favorite section of Tel Aviv for many among us. Our walk back towards central Tel Aviv led through one of the city's largest open air souqs, the Hacarmel. In many ways, the market is no different from any other one might find in the world. Loud and crowded, and filled with all varieties of merchandise, both local and foreign in origin, markets like this one are a true experience for the senses.

"The sights and sounds of Tel Aviv's Hacarmel market"
Photo by Stephen Kushner

What really sets one market apart from another though is the local foods. For myself, this is the aspect of travel that has the most resonance. Really, look at these olives below and try and tell me it doesn't make you hungry! From vendors selling fresh produce and spices, to sidewalk chefs hawking hundreds of varieties of street food, this is where a market really differentiates itself. In Israel this means schwarma, falafel, and burekas. Not to miss out, I made sure to sample all three! Delicious.

"Some delicious looking olives in the Hacarmel market"
Photo by Stephen Kushner

To be honest though, these are really only the tip of the iceberg when it comes to Israeli street cuisine. As such, over the next few weeks myself and a few other adventurous teammates will be looking to try as many others as we come across. Personally, I can't wait!

Following our tour, we headed to our hotel. Our lodgings in Tel Aviv were pretty cool, too. Our hotel, the Hotel Cinema, was built in the famous Bauhaus style, and for years served as a movie theater (actually the city's first). After briefly showering and changing we headed out to sample the night life. Dinner was at Mike's Place - directly adjacent to the US Embassy.  Then, we schlepped quickly across the street to La Mer - for nargila and drinks on the beach - a true Tel Aviv experience, not to be missed.

"The team enjoys dinner out at Mike's Place in Tel Aviv"
Photo by Brad Husser

On Saturday, we were free to explore the city. Some in the group opted to head to the beach, while others (myself included) decided to walk the promenade from Tel Aviv to Jaffa. Having toured the city with a guide the previous day, we had a chance to retrace our steps in greater detail. It was hot and sweaty, and though many shops were closed for Shabbat, we were definitely glad to get a chance to see the city for a second day.

"Chris, Kelley, Brad, and Don - looking like the A-Team"
Photo by Stephen Kushner

As we departed on Sunday, I believe the shared consensus among the group was that our tour of Tel Aviv was a great success! Without a doubt, Tel Aviv is a cool city - equal parts Miami, Rio, and Israel. It is a place to see and be seen. We'll be back.