Back to Jerusalem, pt2

On Saturday we woke up at a more reasonable time (leaving Ramat Rachel at 9:30am) for a visit to the Israel Museum. Located on a hill in the Givat Ram neighborhood of Jerusalem, near the Knesset, the Israel Museum is most famous for two amazing exhibits. The first is an enormous and fully detailed (22,000sqft) model of Jerusalem at the time of the Second Temple. The second is the Shrine of the Book which contains the Dead Sea Scrolls discovered in (now) southern Israel in 1947–56 in 11 caves around Wadi Qumran. 

"Our guide, Israel, talks with us about ancient Jerusalem"
Photo by Kristin Thompson

Our tour guide, Israel, took us on a full tour of the model. Over about 30 minutes we walked to each side - and were provided a thorough history of the city - as it was two thousand years ago. Incredibly - despite the centuries and the modern construction - the actual city retains a very consistent visual appearance to the model. The colors and layout have not changed drastically over the centuries. After our tour of the model we visited the Shrine of the Book. Interestingly, the outside of the shrine is constructed to visually represent the War of the Sons of Light Against the Sons of Darkness. The white dome symbolizes the Sons of Light, while the black wall symbolizes the Sons of Darkness. The interior of the shrine is like a cave, representing the environment in which the scrolls were discovered sixty years ago.

"The Sons of Light and the Sons of Darkness"
Photo by Kristin Thompson

That afternoon, a few of the team decided to visit the Old City of Jerusalem again, instead of heading back to the hotel. Those who went did quite a bit of shopping (mostly nargilas) before stopping at a bar for drinks and snacks. I (and a few others) opted to return to the hotel for relaxation either inside at the bar or out at the pool. According to a few people, the water slide was pretty amazing, though I didn't get a chance to try it myself. That evening the team went out on the town in Jerusalem - first to watch the World Cup match between Paraguay and Spain and then later to a nearby dance club. It was a very late night.

"Sherwin Pomerantz talks with the group about Israeli business"
Photo by Kristin Thompson

Sunday was focused on company visits and meetings. In the morning we had a meeting with Sherwin Pomerantz at Shelby's house. A 24-year resident of Israel, Sherwin (and three others) founded the Atid-EDI consulting firm. Atid-EDI is a team of economic, research, trade development and planning professionals who understand the nuances and business climates in Israel, North America and the region. Since 1991, Sherwin's firm has functioned as consultants to Israel's Ministry of Industry, Trade & Labor's Investment Promotion Center. He has also represented the trade interests, in the Middle East, of a number of U.S. states, including Delaware, Georgia, Illinois, New Mexico, Oklahoma, and Pennsylvania. As you can imagine, Sherwin had the knowledge to provide for a very interesting meeting!

"The group visits PresenTense to hear from Jewish entrepreneurs"
Photo by Kristin Thompson

After this meeting we traveled to Jerusalem's German Colony to visit PresenTense, a group that aims to foster entrepreneurship and leadership amongst the international Jewish community. While there, we heard business pitches from a group of summer fellows. We made sure to ask them lots of tough questions. The highlight of our visit to PresenTense though was that we got to hear a talk by Saul Singer, author of Start Up Nation (detailed in this previous post). Altogether, it was a pretty cool set of meetings!

"Saul Singer gives a talk on his book Start Up Nation"
Photo by Kristin Thompson

That afternoon, we finished our weekend in Jerusalem by celebrating America's Independence Day, July 4th. Once again, we traveled back to Shelby's house - this time for a BBQ. Hot dogs and hamburgers (sans cheese unfortunately) were plentiful, and everyone was content. Though we weren't able to acquire fireworks, it definitely was a great way to feel like we were back in the US of A. That evening the team hopped in the van for the long trek back to our house in Haifa - one final week of classes left to go.

Tel Aviv Weekend

Once again, the Smith team found ourselves on the road - off to explore another part of Israel. Friday, after an early morning departure from Haifa, a relaxing drive down the coastal highway, and a morning meeting (detailed in the previous post), we were guided on a visit of Tel Aviv and the surrounding area.

The commercial and modern cultural center of Israel, Tel Aviv is a study in contrasts. The city itself is only slightly older than the modern state of Israel itself. Indeed, it was only founded a little over 100 years ago by a group of industrious Jewish settlers - literally built on top of a series of inhospitable sand dunes. However, Tel Aviv is directly adjacent to (and incorporates) the significantly older port city of Jaffa.

"Me, Sean, Anne, and Kristin by the seashore in Old Jaffa"
Photo by Kristin Thompson

It was in Jaffa that we spent the afternoon, strolling about and seeing the sights. In Jaffa, we saw St. Peter's Church, the Old Minaret, and the Ottoman Jailhouse. We walked past winding alleyways and half forgotten neighborhoods. Jaffa is no longer an active port, but its amazing location on the waterfront provides a beautiful view from the Mediterranean Sea back towards Tel Aviv proper.

"Me with the city of Tel Aviv in the distance"
Photo by Kristin Thompson

Adjacent to Jaffa is the Neve Tzedek neighborhood. Fashionable and trendy, this was a favorite section of Tel Aviv for many among us. Our walk back towards central Tel Aviv led through one of the city's largest open air souqs, the Hacarmel. In many ways, the market is no different from any other one might find in the world. Loud and crowded, and filled with all varieties of merchandise, both local and foreign in origin, markets like this one are a true experience for the senses.

"The sights and sounds of Tel Aviv's Hacarmel market"
Photo by Stephen Kushner

What really sets one market apart from another though is the local foods. For myself, this is the aspect of travel that has the most resonance. Really, look at these olives below and try and tell me it doesn't make you hungry! From vendors selling fresh produce and spices, to sidewalk chefs hawking hundreds of varieties of street food, this is where a market really differentiates itself. In Israel this means schwarma, falafel, and burekas. Not to miss out, I made sure to sample all three! Delicious.

"Some delicious looking olives in the Hacarmel market"
Photo by Stephen Kushner

To be honest though, these are really only the tip of the iceberg when it comes to Israeli street cuisine. As such, over the next few weeks myself and a few other adventurous teammates will be looking to try as many others as we come across. Personally, I can't wait!

Following our tour, we headed to our hotel. Our lodgings in Tel Aviv were pretty cool, too. Our hotel, the Hotel Cinema, was built in the famous Bauhaus style, and for years served as a movie theater (actually the city's first). After briefly showering and changing we headed out to sample the night life. Dinner was at Mike's Place - directly adjacent to the US Embassy.  Then, we schlepped quickly across the street to La Mer - for nargila and drinks on the beach - a true Tel Aviv experience, not to be missed.

"The team enjoys dinner out at Mike's Place in Tel Aviv"
Photo by Brad Husser

On Saturday, we were free to explore the city. Some in the group opted to head to the beach, while others (myself included) decided to walk the promenade from Tel Aviv to Jaffa. Having toured the city with a guide the previous day, we had a chance to retrace our steps in greater detail. It was hot and sweaty, and though many shops were closed for Shabbat, we were definitely glad to get a chance to see the city for a second day.

"Chris, Kelley, Brad, and Don - looking like the A-Team"
Photo by Stephen Kushner

As we departed on Sunday, I believe the shared consensus among the group was that our tour of Tel Aviv was a great success! Without a doubt, Tel Aviv is a cool city - equal parts Miami, Rio, and Israel. It is a place to see and be seen. We'll be back.