Jerusalem Visit

After a day back in Haifa for our weekly class at the Technion, on Friday morning the Smith team was back on the road for a full weekend of touring and sightseeing. In the morning we were met by our guide, Israel, who gave us a preview of the days activities as we sped down the highway to our first stop of the day, Caesarea.

"Our guide Israel weaves a story about ancient Caesarea"
Photo by Kristin Thompson

Planted firmly against the coast, halfway between Haifa and Tel Aviv, Caesarea is an ancient port city that dates to the time of Herod the Great – about 22 BCE. The ancient city itself is no longer inhabited - as the last occupants, French crusaders under Louis IX - were forced to flee when the city was put to fire by Baybar invaders in 1251 CE. Literally lost to the sands, the city was rediscovered and its secrets uncovered in the 1940s due to the financial generosity of Baron Edmond Benjamin James de Rothschild.

"Modern concerts in Caesarea's ancient amphitheater"
Photo by Kristin Thompson

Our first stop in Caesarea was the Roman aqueduct that provided fresh water to the city for over a thousand years. From there we proceeded to the old city itself, where we visited the Roman theater, hippodrome, and palace (which was possibly the former residence of Pontius Pilate). As we walked back to the van, we passed through the city walls and across the moat, which were both constructed by the Crusaders. All in all, Caesarea was awesome!
 

"Driving through East Jerusalem"
Photo by Kristin Thompson

From Caesarea we drove directly on to Jerusalem. Since it was Friday, a lot of tourist sites were closing at sunset for Shabbat, so we were in quite a rush to get into town. We drove into the Old City and parked right next to the City of David – where the Biblical King built his palace and capital in 1000 BCE. The key attraction at this famous archaeological site is Hezekiah's Tunnel. This tunnel, which runs for a little under half a mile is filled with about three feet of water at all times. We walked (in my case barefoot) through the tunnel before emerging on the other side in East Jerusalem. Following our underground trek (which seemed to go on and on), we proceeded to the promenade overlooking the city.

"Looking out at Old Jerusalem from the Haas Promenade" 
Photo by Kelley Harris

We went next to our hotel for a brief rest before Shabbat dinner. Max and Sue Singer (parents of Saul Singer, the author of Start-up Nation) were kind enough to invite the entire Smith team into their home to participate in this weekly Jewish tradition. Dinner began with the serving of homemade challahs. Afterwords, this ritual was followed by Kiddush, the blessing of the wine. Max and Sue then led us through a number of other songs and readings before we finally began the meal in earnest. Altogether, everyone had a great time!
 

"Shabbat dinner with Max and Sue Singer"
 Photo by Stephen Kushner

In the preceding days, I had been coming down with a bit of a cold. A bug of some sort had been making its rounds around the team - and unfortunately my time arrived sometime late Friday night. I woke Saturday morning feeling pretty horrible - so somewhat reluctantly I opted to skip the tour that morning. I did get a pretty good report from the team later that evening though, when we all convened for dinner.
 

"Old Jerusalem near the Jaffa Gate" 
Photo by Kristin Thompson

On Saturday the group met our guide, Israel, at 9am in the hotel lobby. From there the group went to the Old City, this time for a more thorough tour of its many historical sites. The team walked the Via Dolorosa, visited the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, and shopped (and ate) in the Muristan Souq. From there they climbed the ramparts and walked the city walls, emerging just next to the Western Wall. The last stop of the afternoon was a short drive to the Mount of Olives – a site significant to both Jewish and Christian traditions.

"Fresh food at the always busy, Muristan Souq"
Photo by Kristin Thompson

I was feeling a bit better that evening so I opted to join everyone for dinner at Asher Epstein’s place. Altogether, the group was feeling pretty fired up about everything we’d seen and done so far this weekend. Additionally, this evening was especially important to everyone, as it was the England vs. USA World Cup match. Americans (myself included) have a funny habit of completely ignoring the sport of soccer (nee football) for 4 years and then suddenly remembering when the Cup comes around again. It may be the world’s sport, but it certainly isn’t America's sport. Anyway, the game started at 9:30pm, so many in the group decided to head to the The Lion’s Den pub to watch.
 

"Everyone celebrates as the USA battles back against England in the World Cup" 
Photo by Kristin Thompson

Ninety minutes later the game was over and we (the USA) had forced England to a 1-1 tie. I’ve read that this was a fantastic result – as everyone had expected England to prevail. That being said, I have a hard time getting excited about a tie game. I mean, really? A tie? I think this fact alone is what makes it so hard for Americans to get behind this game. Someone has to win. Without a winner, what’s the point?  

Anyway, one other cool outcome from the game: our esteemed photographer, Kristin had the previous photo featured in the Washington Post. Congrats, Kristin! All in all, Jerusalem was a blast! We got to see some fantastic historical sites, eat wonderful food, and watch the USA beat up on our cousins across the pond. It would be hard to ask for much more – well maybe the USA could have won rather than tied - but I digress.

Heading North

This weekend found the team on the road to Northern Israel. Waking up bright and early on Sunday morning, we had a quick breakfast and then departed for a day long guided excursion to see the sights and attractions of Haifa, Acre, and Rosh HaNikra. 

After a quick drive up the coast from our base in Ramat Eshkol, first up was a quick tour through Haifa's German Colony and then up the side of Mount Carmel to the most impressive (and beautiful) view in Haifa - the Bahá'í World Centre and the Shrine of the Báb. As you can see from the picture below, the Bahá'í Gardens are gorgeous.

"View of Haifa from the top terrace of the Bahá'í Gardens"
Photo by Daniel Branscome

Leaving Haifa, we headed further up the coast to the ancient city of Acre. One of the oldest sites of human habitation, Acre has been a site of many conflicts over the past millenia - and has changed hands repeatedly. As such, Acre is home to many interesting sites, chief among them, a buried Crusader Fortress, an Ottoman Citadel, and the Khan al-Umdan. 

"inside the main hall of the Knights Hospitaller at Acre"
Photo by Kristin Thompson

No doubt about it, these places were big hits with the group and had the Dan Brown fans among us thinking back to what we'd read regarding the Knights Templar and Knights Hospitaller. Very cool stuff.

By this time, the group was getting hungry - and boy oh boy - the tour guide did not disappoint. This brings us to what I'd say is currently the odds on favorite for highlight of the trip to date - lunch in Acre. After trudging through back allies, we found ourselves in front of a packed little hummus joint in the middle of Acre's Arab souq. 

"Our tasty hummus lunch in Acre's Arab souq"
Photo by Kristin Thompson

If its not already obvious, the team really liked lunch - even as it only really consisted of warm pita, veggies, and hummus. The restaurant - whose name I never quite figured out how to pronounce - was instantly dubbed by the group as the "Ben's Chili Bowl" (Hummus Bowl?) of Acre. It was just that good.

Leaving Acre, we departed for the final site of the day, Rosh HaNikra. Directly on the border with Lebanon, these white chalk cliffs and coastal grottoes are known as the gateway to Israel. Taking a cable car down to the sea edge, we were able to explore the inside of the caves - and get up close and personal (my wet t-shirt is a testament to how close I was) with the waves that have been crashing and forming this site for ages. 

"The team enjoying the seaside sights of Rosh HaNikra"
Photo by Kristin Thompson

This was a great way to end the day - and got us all excited about the adventures to come! Next up, this week we'll be working at the Technion in Haifa. Then on Friday we depart for a weekend in Tel Aviv.