After a very busy final week in Haifa, I've finally gotten around to writing about our trip last weekend to Jerusalem. It was a pretty packed weekend, so there's a lot to cover. On Friday morning (July 2) we departed very early from Haifa for the ride south to Jerusalem.
"The Old City of Jerusalem just before sunset"
Photo by Stephen Kushner
After a sleepy ride south, our first stop was at Yad Vashem, Israel's official Holocaust memorial and museum. Established in 1953 through the Yad Vashem Law passed by the Knesset, Israel's parliament, the museum is a 45-acre (600,000sqft) complex located at at the foot of Mount Herzl on the Mount of Remembrance in Jerusalem. It contains the Holocaust History Museum and memorial sites, such as the Children's Memorial and the Hall of Remembrance. The origin of the name is from a Biblical verse: "And to them will I give in my house and within my walls a memorial and a name (Yad Vashem) that shall not be cut off". Annually, it is Israel's second most visited site behind the Western Wall.
"Inside the Hall of Remembrance at the Holocaust Museum"
Photo by Kristin Thompson
Even for those among us who had previously visited either the US Holocaust Museum in Washington D.C. or visited the concentration camps in Europe, this was a very somber and sobering experience. As a few of us noted, the internal architecture of the museum felt intentional - leading visitors through a confined and crowded space - with the cement walls seeming to fall inward as one walked through the exhibits - recreating the feel of the concentration camps. In contrast, the exterior grounds were beautiful, with many memorial statues and gardens. All in all it was an experience we will all remember for a long time. "Looking out at Judea after emerging from the Holocaust Museum"
Photo by Kristin Thompson
After Yad Vashem, the group traveled to the Mahane Yehuda market (the souq) for schwarma and snacks. I had a delicious schwarma with hot peppers and - my new favorite topping - spicy mango sauce. Amazing! Afterwords, I bought some dried pineapple and coconut (which is cheap and tasty) and then grabbed coffee at a small cafe while waiting for the rest of the team to finish. I will definitely miss the food and smells of the souq once I get back to the US. Don't get me wrong - Eastern Market is great - it's just not Mehane Yehuda.
That evening (Friday) the team had Shabbat dinner at the home of our on-the-ground coordinator - Shelby. An American (now having lived in Israel for about a year) Shelby was kind enough to open her house to us for the night. After a great meal we settled in to watch the World Cup match between Ghana and Uruguay. Late that evening we retired to our hotel for the weekend - Ramat Rachel Hotel located in Kibbutz Ramat Rachel. A little bit secluded from the center of the city, the place was located on a hill offering gorgeous views of Bethlehem, Jerusalem and the Judean Hills.
After a day back in Haifa for our weekly class at the Technion, on Friday morning the Smith team was back on the road for a full weekend of touring and sightseeing. In the morning we were met by our guide, Israel, who gave us a preview of the days activities as we sped down the highway to our first stop of the day, Caesarea.
"Our guide Israel weaves a story about ancient Caesarea"
Photo by Kristin Thompson
Planted firmly against the coast, halfway between Haifa and Tel Aviv, Caesarea is an ancient port city that dates to the time of Herod the Great – about 22 BCE. The ancient city itself is no longer inhabited - as the last occupants, French crusaders under Louis IX - were forced to flee when the city was put to fire by Baybar invaders in 1251 CE. Literally lost to the sands, the city was rediscovered and its secrets uncovered in the 1940s due to the financial generosity of Baron Edmond Benjamin James de Rothschild.
"Modern concerts in Caesarea's ancient amphitheater"
Photo by Kristin Thompson
Our first stop in Caesarea was the Roman aqueduct that provided fresh water to the city for over a thousand years. From there we proceeded to the old city itself, where we visited the Roman theater, hippodrome, and palace (which was possibly the former residence of Pontius Pilate). As we walked back to the van, we passed through the city walls and across the moat, which were both constructed by the Crusaders. All in all, Caesarea was awesome!
"Driving through East Jerusalem"
Photo by Kristin Thompson
From Caesarea we drove directly on to Jerusalem. Since it was Friday, a lot of tourist sites were closing at sunset for Shabbat, so we were in quite a rush to get into town. We drove into the Old City and parked right next to the City of David – where the Biblical King built his palace and capital in 1000 BCE. The key attraction at this famous archaeological site is Hezekiah's Tunnel. This tunnel, which runs for a little under half a mile is filled with about three feet of water at all times. We walked (in my case barefoot) through the tunnel before emerging on the other side in East Jerusalem. Following our underground trek (which seemed to go on and on), we proceeded to the promenade overlooking the city.
"Looking out at Old Jerusalem from the Haas Promenade"
Photo by Kelley Harris
We went next to our hotel for a brief rest before Shabbat dinner. Max and Sue Singer (parents of Saul Singer, the author of Start-up Nation) were kind enough to invite the entire Smith team into their home to participate in this weekly Jewish tradition. Dinner began with the serving of homemade challahs. Afterwords, this ritual was followed by Kiddush, the blessing of the wine. Max and Sue then led us through a number of other songs and readings before we finally began the meal in earnest. Altogether, everyone had a great time!
"Shabbat dinner with Max and Sue Singer"
Photo by Stephen Kushner
In the preceding days, I had been coming down with a bit of a cold. A bug of some sort had been making its rounds around the team - and unfortunately my time arrived sometime late Friday night. I woke Saturday morning feeling pretty horrible - so somewhat reluctantly I opted to skip the tour that morning. I did get a pretty good report from the team later that evening though, when we all convened for dinner.
"Old Jerusalem near the Jaffa Gate"
Photo by Kristin Thompson
On Saturday the group met our guide, Israel, at 9am in the hotel lobby. From there the group went to the Old City, this time for a more thorough tour of its many historical sites. The team walked the Via Dolorosa, visited the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, and shopped (and ate) in the Muristan Souq. From there they climbed the ramparts and walked the city walls, emerging just next to the Western Wall. The last stop of the afternoon was a short drive to the Mount of Olives – a site significant to both Jewish and Christian traditions.
"Fresh food at the always busy, Muristan Souq"
Photo by Kristin Thompson
I was feeling a bit better that evening so I opted to join everyone for dinner at Asher Epstein’s place. Altogether, the group was feeling pretty fired up about everything we’d seen and done so far this weekend. Additionally, this evening was especially important to everyone, as it was the England vs. USA World Cup match. Americans (myself included) have a funny habit of completely ignoring the sport of soccer (nee football) for 4 years and then suddenly remembering when the Cup comes around again. It may be the world’s sport, but it certainly isn’t America's sport. Anyway, the game started at 9:30pm, so many in the group decided to head to the The Lion’s Den pub to watch.
"Everyone celebrates as the USA battles back against England in the World Cup"
Photo by Kristin Thompson
Ninety minutes later the game was over and we (the USA) had forced England to a 1-1 tie. I’ve read that this was a fantastic result – as everyone had expected England to prevail. That being said, I have a hard time getting excited about a tie game. I mean, really? A tie? I think this fact alone is what makes it so hard for Americans to get behind this game. Someone has to win. Without a winner, what’s the point?
Anyway, one other cool outcome from the game: our esteemed photographer, Kristin had the previous photo featured in the Washington Post. Congrats, Kristin! All in all, Jerusalem was a blast! We got to see some fantastic historical sites, eat wonderful food, and watch the USA beat up on our cousins across the pond. It would be hard to ask for much more – well maybe the USA could have won rather than tied - but I digress.
Once again, the Smith team found ourselves on the road - off to explore another part of Israel. Friday, after an early morning departure from Haifa, a relaxing drive down the coastal highway, and a morning meeting (detailed in the previous post), we were guided on a visit of Tel Aviv and the surrounding area.
The commercial and modern cultural center of Israel, Tel Aviv is a study in contrasts. The city itself is only slightly older than the modern state of Israel itself. Indeed, it was only founded a little over 100 years ago by a group of industrious Jewish settlers - literally built on top of a series of inhospitable sand dunes. However, Tel Aviv is directly adjacent to (and incorporates) the significantly older port city of Jaffa.
"Me, Sean, Anne, and Kristin by the seashore in Old Jaffa"
Photo by Kristin Thompson
It was in Jaffa that we spent the afternoon, strolling about and seeing the sights. In Jaffa, we saw St. Peter's Church, the Old Minaret, and the Ottoman Jailhouse. We walked past winding alleyways and half forgotten neighborhoods. Jaffa is no longer an active port, but its amazing location on the waterfront provides a beautiful view from the Mediterranean Sea back towards Tel Aviv proper.
"Me with the city of Tel Aviv in the distance"
Photo by Kristin Thompson
Adjacent to Jaffa is the Neve Tzedek neighborhood. Fashionable and trendy, this was a favorite section of Tel Aviv for many among us. Our walk back towards central Tel Aviv led through one of the city's largest open air souqs, the Hacarmel. In many ways, the market is no different from any other one might find in the world. Loud and crowded, and filled with all varieties of merchandise, both local and foreign in origin, markets like this one are a true experience for the senses.
"The sights and sounds of Tel Aviv's Hacarmel market"
Photo by Stephen Kushner
What really sets one market apart from another though is the local foods. For myself, this is the aspect of travel that has the most resonance. Really, look at these olives below and try and tell me it doesn't make you hungry! From vendors selling fresh produce and spices, to sidewalk chefs hawking hundreds of varieties of street food, this is where a market really differentiates itself. In Israel this means schwarma, falafel, and burekas. Not to miss out, I made sure to sample all three! Delicious.
"Some delicious looking olives in the Hacarmel market"
Photo by Stephen Kushner
To be honest though, these are really only the tip of the iceberg when it comes to Israeli street cuisine. As such, over the next few weeks myself and a few other adventurous teammates will be looking to try as many others as we come across. Personally, I can't wait!
Following our tour, we headed to our hotel. Our lodgings in Tel Aviv were pretty cool, too. Our hotel, the Hotel Cinema, was built in the famous Bauhaus style, and for years served as a movie theater (actually the city's first). After briefly showering and changing we headed out to sample the night life. Dinner was at Mike's Place - directly adjacent to the US Embassy. Then, we schlepped quickly across the street to La Mer - for nargila and drinks on the beach - a true Tel Aviv experience, not to be missed.
"The team enjoys dinner out at Mike's Place in Tel Aviv"
Photo by Brad Husser
On Saturday, we were free to explore the city. Some in the group opted to head to the beach, while others (myself included) decided to walk the promenade from Tel Aviv to Jaffa. Having toured the city with a guide the previous day, we had a chance to retrace our steps in greater detail. It was hot and sweaty, and though many shops were closed for Shabbat, we were definitely glad to get a chance to see the city for a second day.
"Chris, Kelley, Brad, and Don - looking like the A-Team"
Photo by Stephen Kushner
As we departed on Sunday, I believe the shared consensus among the group was that our tour of Tel Aviv was a great success! Without a doubt, Tel Aviv is a cool city - equal parts Miami, Rio, and Israel. It is a place to see and be seen. We'll be back.
This weekend found the team on the road to Northern Israel. Waking up bright and early on Sunday morning, we had a quick breakfast and then departed for a day long guided excursion to see the sights and attractions of Haifa, Acre, and Rosh HaNikra.
After a quick drive up the coast from our base in Ramat Eshkol, first up was a quick tour through Haifa's German Colony and then up the side of Mount Carmel to the most impressive (and beautiful) view in Haifa - the Bahá'í World Centre and the Shrine of the Báb. As you can see from the picture below, the Bahá'í Gardens are gorgeous.
"View of Haifa from the top terrace of the Bahá'í Gardens"
Photo by Daniel Branscome
Leaving Haifa, we headed further up the coast to the ancient city of Acre. One of the oldest sites of human habitation, Acre has been a site of many conflicts over the past millenia - and has changed hands repeatedly. As such, Acre is home to many interesting sites, chief among them, a buried Crusader Fortress, an Ottoman Citadel, and the Khan al-Umdan.
"inside the main hall of the Knights Hospitaller at Acre"
Photo by Kristin Thompson
By this time, the group was getting hungry - and boy oh boy - the tour guide did not disappoint. This brings us to what I'd say is currently the odds on favorite for highlight of the trip to date - lunch in Acre. After trudging through back allies, we found ourselves in front of a packed little hummus joint in the middle of Acre's Arab souq.
"Our tasty hummus lunch in Acre's Arab souq"
Photo by Kristin Thompson
If its not already obvious, the team really liked lunch - even as it only really consisted of warm pita, veggies, and hummus. The restaurant - whose name I never quite figured out how to pronounce - was instantly dubbed by the group as the "Ben's Chili Bowl" (Hummus Bowl?) of Acre. It was just that good.
Leaving Acre, we departed for the final site of the day, Rosh HaNikra. Directly on the border with Lebanon, these white chalk cliffs and coastal grottoes are known as the gateway to Israel. Taking a cable car down to the sea edge, we were able to explore the inside of the caves - and get up close and personal (my wet t-shirt is a testament to how close I was) with the waves that have been crashing and forming this site for ages.
"The team enjoying the seaside sights of Rosh HaNikra"
Photo by Kristin Thompson
This was a great way to end the day - and got us all excited about the adventures to come! Next up, this week we'll be working at the Technion in Haifa. Then on Friday we depart for a weekend in Tel Aviv.
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